Chanel Chance Eau Fraiche

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Chance Eau Fraiche rounds off the line of Chanel’s Chance flankers (at the time of this writing). It’s the first flanker to the original, meant to be a lighter, younger, interpretation of Chance. Though Chance was young to begin with. Chance Eau Fraiche

In Bottle: Light, crisp and green. Very clean and citrus heavy topper with a sweet fruit-like note lingering around as well.

Applied: Sweet, after the sharp citrus kick that immediately invades the nose upon application. The citron is going bananas in this fragrance as Chance Eau Fraiche mellows a teensy bit in the mid-stage but still clings to its sharp, clean, blaring personality that it displayed on initial application. I don’t know how to calm her down but she is very energetic! The middle has that sweet fruity note again and a familiar hyacinth echo that was present in the original Chance. It’s pretty much a cleaner, lighter, more citrusy Chance and there isn’t a whole lot else to it. The mid-stage is rather disappointing this miasma of sharp, sweet and clean that doesn’t quite go well together but tries anyway. The drydown is a mildly woodsy white musk. Like faintly wood-scented soap and sweet lemon drops.

Extra: Eau Fraiche is good for the young audience too though it is definitely a flanker and isn’t likely to excel much beyond that. It’s got clear echos of the original Chance except even cleaner, even more sheer and slapped in the face with a dollop of fresh.

Design: Much like Chance and Chance Eau Tendre, Chanel Chance Eau Fraiche is bottled in a circle with a square cap. Same effective deal with the same minimal but attractive Chanel elegance. Eau Fraiche’s juice is colored light green.

Fragrance Family: Fresh Floral

Notes: Citron, water hyacinth, jasmine, white musk, vetiver, amber, patchouli, teak wood.

Ranking the Chance series, I’m going to have to put original Chance in number one, Eau Fraiche in second and Eau Tendre in third. Mostly Eau Tendre suffers because of how familiar it is to Marc Jacobs Daisy on the opener.

Reviewed in This Post: Chance Eau Fraiche, 2010, Eau de Toilette.

Chanel Chance

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Having done a review of Chanel’s Chance Eau Tendre earlier and being largely unimpressed with it, I had given it a few months before pursuing Chanel Chance again. I smelled it a year ago and barely remember a thing about this fragrance other than the fact that it smells a bit posh but otherwise inconsequential. Chance

In Bottle: Cleaned up spice that I want to say smells like pink pepper. The spice is laid over a sweet bed of sheer florals.

Applied: Spicy from the pink pepper then a bit floral as Chance is a sweet, young, modern floral oriental without any of the musk or animalic qualities that make floral orientals a classic hit. There’s nothing dirty to it though it is a bit warm as it wades into its midstage with a conundrum of sweet fragrances, one of the most prominent I can pick out is the hyacinth that floats about in the perfume like a ever present flowery ghost. When Chance dies down it is a sheer sweet floral affair still with a mingling of cleaned up white musk. White musk having a sharp, soapy smell that practically leaps out of its chair and shouts, “I’m clean!” There is nothing dirty, or scary about Chance. It is a well-behaved member of the mainstream, modern Chanel fragrance family.

Extra: Seems that Chance has hit a good mark with the modern perfume wearing woman as aside from Coco Mademoiselle, this is one of the fragrances I smell most often on other women. It’s benign enough to be worn extensively and the Chanel label certainly helps its desirability. Though I have to say, Coco or No. 5 Eau Premiere are preferred by me.

Design: Chance is bottled in a cute circle container with a square for a cap. I do rather like the way that Chance and its line of flankers is packaged as I always loved how Chanel always maintained wonderfully minimalist bottle designs. I believe (though correct me if I’m wrong) Chanel Chance has two slightly different designs for their EDT and EDP concentrations. The EDT concentration has a clear cap, whereas the EDP concentration has a solid metallic cap (pictured in this post).

Fragrance Family: Floral Oriental

Notes: White musk, hyacinth, citron, pink pepper, jasmine, vetiver, orris absolute, amber, patchouli.

Chance is so hugely popular now that it even has a splash version of the fragrance that’s sold in the hole in the wall I go to for my perfumes. Due to its increasing popularity, it is also one of the most counterfeited perfumes.

Reviewed in This Post: Chance, 2009, Eau de Parfum.

Chanel 31 Rue Cambon

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31 Rue Cambon is like a modern miracle. It’s a chypre. A modern one though, and being a modern chypre it is still missing the ever beloved and tragically lost, oakmoss. Yet 31 Rue Cambon still manages to pull the modern chypre off with elegance and classic flair.  31 Rue Cambon

In Bottle: A beautifully done iris note is a predominant player in this fragrance with a nice woodsiness to it that takes its sophistication up a few more notches still. There’s a sweetness lingering up front in 31 Rue Cambon that adds the “modern” section of this fragrance. Finally, there is a soft powdery note to this as well which is what gives it that classical scent to me.

Applied: Slightly aldehydic with a generous layering of florals and a splash of bergamot with a note of sweetness added in. 31 Rue Cambon goes on from the opening with a powdery introduction of the iris, and very decadent-smelling rose and jasmine, with some wood notes that blend well with the opener to create a complex blend of warm, leathery, powdery fragrance. This  makes me think of Coco by Chanel wrapped up in an ivy and rose dress. 31 Rue Cambon is a short-lived beauty as it approached its dry down within a matter of hours. A strange thing given the fact that most Chanels last forever on me. Its end game is no stranger to zip as it dries down with a warm, complex, leatheriness.

Extra: 31 Rue Cambon is one of the more popular fragrances from Chanel’s Les Exclusifs collection of fragrances. I can’t say I’m a major fan of many of Chanel’s mainstream releases as of late, but their Les Exclusifs line stick well to the older script that bears creative beautiful little masterpieces like this one.

Design: The Les Exclusifs line is designed to look fairly similar with a tall rectangular bottle, white label, bold and clean black letter. True Chanel minimalist style. The bottles also feature that fantastic magnetic click cap that I couldn’t seem to get enough of on Bleu de Chanel.

Fragrance Family: Modern Chypre

Notes: Pepper, bergamot, orris, narcissus, jasmine, patchouli, ambrette, vetiver, labdanum.

I’ll be blunt in noting that I hold no love for most modern chypres because they tend to smell nothing like a chypre should. But 31 Rue Cambon is as close as it’s going to get, and while the chypre in this is still masked behind a big modern personality, it manages to smell classic, elegant and truly Chanel.

Reviewed in This Post: 31 Rue Cambon, 2009, Eau de Toilette.

Best of 2010

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Let’s do a fragrance roundup of the best fragrance releases over the past year, and do a rehash on my personal favorites just because.

So what were the best of 2010 in my opinion? In no particular order:

“Shalimar Ode à la Vanille” by Guerlain
– Of course I had to slot a Guerlain in there but I am a fangirl. Shalimar’s vanilla heavy flanker is a beautifully done fragrance that amps up the vanilla and adds a hint of clean. The perfume tones down the musk and civet. It’s a wonderful introduction fragrance for those trying to understand and love this classic perfume and I think Guerlain did their vanilla perfectly well in this fragrance. Get this while you can though, it is a limited edition.

“Iris Ukiyoé” by Hermès
– This fragrance is an approachable iris scent with a little bit of spice and a scent of rose. It’s built on the likeable pyramid of grapefruit, fruits and florals, woods formula that a lot of modern perfumes follow but it does it well with a few added ingredients put in. What results is a scent that’s light, fresh, with a little bit of personality.

“Peace, Love and Juicy Couture” by Juicy Couture
– Color me as surprised as I was to have included a Juicy perfume in my best of 2010 list but PLJC is a very good contender. It’s got props for smelling like a Chanel and doing it for a more reasonable price tag. PLJC I’ve already reviewed so you know it’s an earthy green scent that goes on like grass and evolves into a sophisticated green floral and leaf scent. A shocking beauty from a brand that sells velour tracksuits.

“Kiss Me Tender” by Parfums de Nicolaï
– One of the few niche scents that I got my grubby hands on this year. Kiss Me Tender is a beautifully done gourmand floral. It bills itself as a floriental but I feel the almond and vanilla take it more toward gourmand. In either case, it’s a lovely fragrance, highly wearable and utterly feminine and does not take the low road to gourmand by having a loud obnoxious vanilla. Kiss Me Tender is well behaved and lighter than most gourmands tend to be.

“Zizonia” by Penhaligon
– For the more daring, Zizonia is a fascinating spicy mix of pepper, oranges, ginger and nutmeg layered over a woody and earthy base. It’s an interesting departure from the usual scents and reminds me quite a bit of a spice market.

As for my personal top five list of favorite fragrances?

1. Spirituese Double Vanille by Guerlain
2. Un Lys by Serge Lutens
3. Plumdrop by Victoria’s Secret
4. Beige by Chanel
5. No. 5 Eau Premiere by Chanel