Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab Wensleydale

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Wensleydale is the fragrance I go to after a shower and feel like I need to be as clean as possible. Wensleydale is a part of the Good Omens series of fragrances by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab. You can find them here. Wensleydale

In Bottle: Strong but very reminiscent of a classic bar of soap. Think a bar of white soap and you’ve pretty much got Wensleydale.

Applied: Strong waft of soapiness that’s a little bit sharp to begin with, but the fragrance settles down quickly into a warm clean smell with an added hint of sweetness and cream. I get a wonderful mix that reminds me of stepping out of the shower and wrapping myself up in a warm terrycloth robe. There’s not too much else to Wensleydale, it barely goes through two progressions with the sharpness fading into a creaminess and the fragrance fades into a pretty linear clean cotton smell. But boy do I love it because of how nicely it combines warm, clean, fresh, sweet, and creamy into a scent.

Extra: Wensleydale is named after a character in Neil Gaimen’s Good Omens book. And the Wensleydale character, in turn, was named after a valley in England.

Design: Wensleydale is bottled in the same way as other Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab scents. Amber bottle with a label affixed to it. Wensleydale and the other scents in the Good Omens series feature unique art for their labels.

Fragrance Family: Clean Floral

Notes: Cotton, milk, amber, white musk.

I have no way of knowing what the notes are in this, so it’s all a big guess on my part. It might also interest potential Wensleydale testers to know that Black Phoenix is donating proceeds from the sale of Wensleydale and other fragrances from the Good Omens line to two charities.

Reviewed in This Post: Wensleydale, 2010, 5ml Bottle.

Etro Heliotrope

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Etro’s Heliotrope is one of the more unique florals I’ve encountered and makes me question why it took me so long to try an Etro fragrance to begin with.

Heliotrope

Heliotrope

In Bottle: Rich vanilla and florals. I want to think that heliotrope is the prominent flower, but I’m actually getting more ylang-ylang.

Applied: A bit of almond and powdery heliotrope to start off the scent followed by a mellowing vanilla note that sweetens the fragrance a bit. I get the florals rather quickly, and for some reason ylang-ylang is quite prominent for me. Etro’s Heliotrope smells of powdered vanilla and ylang-ylang. It reminds me of vintage things and powder puffs with delicately scented blooms sitting in a pot of earth nearby. The florals smell natural, the vanilla adds a touch of oriental and smooths the fragrance. It’s overall a very pleasant experience.

Extra: Heliotrope is actually a fairly old release from Etro, having been released in 1989. It certainly explains the different approach to composition.

Design: Bottled rather simply, but still elegantly in a glass bottle with a nicely designed silver cap. It looks luxurious without being over the top and feels great to hold.

Fragrance Family: Oriental Floral

Notes: Bergamot, orange blossom, petitgrain, almond, iris, jasmine, heliotrope, rose, ylang-ylang, balsam, tonka, musk.

Etro is a great niche house with a fairly good representation of fragrances. You can find their stuff on StrawberryNET.

Reviewed in This Post: Heliotrope, 2000, Eau de Toilette.

Expanding My Horizons

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With my pile of samples and pages of  review notes running out–along with the dwindling funds in my wallet–I’m going to start taking this blog on a more personal journey and posting a mixture of entries in addition to fragrance reviews. I’ll always be smelling and writing about it in review form, of course, just from now on you’ll be getting a bit more personal experiences from me–most will be perfume related, and some not.

The Difference Between EDT and EDP

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Probably one of the most frequently recurring questions I hear from people not too familiar with perfumes is, “what the difference between Eau de Toilette (EDT), Eau de Parfum (EDP) and Parfum?” The answer itself might seem simple and people are quick to tell you that EDT is the less concentrated/watered down version of an EDP. The actual answer is much more complex.

While in some cases, the only difference with the Eau de Toilette version of a fragrance is that it is less concentrated than the Eau de Parfum version, it is often not the chief difference between the two. And one should never mistaken EDT as being a telltale indicator that it is an inferior version of an EDP.

I can name numerous examples where the concentration of the fragrance has very little to do with quality or concentration. Take, for example, Chanel No.5. People may be shocked to learn that the EDT and EDP versions are formulated differently. So when you smell No.5 EDT, you are getting a different scent than No.5 EDP because the ingredients are slightly changed in the two versions.

In some instances, the EDT and EDP versions of fragrances may smell different but contain the same ingredients because one ingredient was toned down, causing the entire scent to shift. For example, a fragrance that contains the notes of bergamot, rose, and sandalwood has an EDT and EDP version.

The company may choose to reduce the concentration of sandalwood in their EDT version for example. The result would be a less noticeable sandalwood scent so that someone smelling the EDT might notice the marked difference in their fragrance. And this toning down of ingredients isn’t just limited to one ingredient. Imagine a complex fragrance with hundreds of smelly molecules. Imagine if they adjusted the concentration of twenty of those. It could radically change the experience!

All this having been said and done, how are you supposed to know whether to buy an EDT or an EDP? The answer is simple. You need to smell and test them both to see which one you like more. Don’t assume immediately that a fragrance is the same, only less concentrated between the two formulations. And don’t feel like you’re getting a less desirable product because you opted for the EDT over the EDP. It is up to you, because in the end it is about what you like best.

Dior Midnight Poison

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Midnight Poison is a fairly recent flanker to Dior’s very popular Poison perfume.

Midnight Poison

Midnight Poison

In Bottle: Anyone expecting Midnight Poison to smell like the original Poison will be in for a shock. This is woody, dark, and earthy. It’s a cry so far from Poison that it has me grinning from ear to ear.

Applied: Sharp spiciness and earthiness up front. Lots of patchouli mixing with a spicy bergamot starting note that drifts beautifully into an earthy patchouli rosy scent. The rose is very faint and lends a delicate note to the fragrance as a whole. I wouldn’t have thought this combination would work so well–even though it’s a pretty obvious one. The fragrance fades into a patchouli and wood fragrance as it progresses, surrounding you with a deeply sophisticated blend of earthiness, amber and wood with a faint hint of rose.

Extra: Midnight Poison was released in 2007 and is still widely available from retailers.

Design: Midnight Poison shares the same bottle shape as the other Poison bottles in the line. The chief difference is the coloring of the bottle. It is a deep, dark blue. Very beautiful. The shape is still easy to hold and use.

Fragrance Family: Woodsy

Notes: Bergamot, mandarin, rose, patchouli, amber, vanilla.

Midnight Poison is one amazing fragrance. It’s fascinating in its use of an extremely powerful patchouli note that dominates the scene of the fragrance’s progression.

Reviewed in This Post: Midnight Poison, 2009, Eau de Parfum.

Victoria’s Secret Vanilla Lace

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Vanilla Lace is one of those fragrances that was discontinued for hazy reasons and recently brought back to the glee of its fans. The name for this one was what drew me to it. It reminded me of Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s discontinued, Antique Lace.

Vanilla Lace

Vanilla Lace

In Bottle: Soft, yielding and sweet vanilla.

Applied: There isn’t much to say about Vanilla Lace except that it smells like clean vanilla. It’s obviously a more synthetic vanilla that lacks in spices, but the note is a better build than most synthetic vanilla’s used in fragrances, if only slightly. It’s not overpowering, has a gentleness to it and that helps take away from the synthetic edge it has. When I say a vanilla is synthetic, I usually mean that to my nose, I get a bit of plastic scent with the vanilla. The note is very sweet, so it’s helpful to include it with a clean white musk to cut the sugar. In the end, Vanilla Lace is a nice clean and sweet fragrance. Good for everyday wear, but not what you want to look for if you want sophisticated vanilla.

Extra: Vanilla Lace has been discontinued and re-released a lot. It was recently brought back and is now available on the Victoria’s Secret website or in any Victoria’s Secret store that carries fragrances.

Design: Bottled rather simply in a plastic spray bottle. I’ve always been somewhat impressed by Victoria’s Secret’s plastic bottles. They’re thick, a pleasure to hold, and they have a bit of weight to them. But in the end, it’s still plastic and the body mist is obviously meant to be used up rather quickly.

Fragrance Family: Gourmand

Notes: Vanilla, white musk.

Vanilla Lace’s Body Mist also boasts some amount of chamomile and aloe vera for moisturizing and nourishing your skin. The two moisturizing ingredients are too lightly scented to really be picked up to my nose.

Reviewed in This Post: Vanilla Lace, 2012, Body Mist.

Elizabeth Arden Sunflowers

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Sunflowers has perhaps develop something of a bad rap. Maybe it’s just me. But every time I saw Sunflowers, it was sitting in a bargain bin of fragrances at the thrift store. I always wondered about it, but was never swayed to try it because it sat in the same bin as the likes of other “has-been” celebrity fragrances. Serves me right for being judgmental.

Sunflowers

Sunflowers

In Bottle: A surprisingly pleasant clean floral scent with a nice underlying woodsy amber scent.

Applied: Floral, I get the jasmine and the rose rather quickly with a slight clean bite from the citrus notes. Then I get the cedar and the other woods. The cedar in this is a bit strong and can get kind of loud if I overdo the fragrance but it’s a pleasant reminder that where you find a fragrance shouldn’t let you color your experience with it. Shame on me. Anyway, Sunflowers has a very nice progression to it, there’s nothing overly childish about it and at the same time it’s not trying to be anything artistic. It’s just nice and unassuming, if somewhat strong for my tastes. The cedar gets a bit too loud for me as the fragrance wears on, but I do enjoy the mix of florals and ambery woodsiness that mark the end progression of this scent.

Extra: Sunflowers was released in 1993. It is an extremely accessible fragrance, so if you wanted to give it a try, it should be available almost anywhere.

Design: A rather plain bottle, but then Sunflowers isn’t really about being loud or garish. I don’t particularly like the feel of the bottle or the appearance. It’s a marked step down from other more high-end fragrances, but it isn’t without it’s charm. The little sunflower icon is cute and the bottle is otherwise functional.

Fragrance Family: Woodsy Floral

Notes: Orange blossom, mandarin, lemon, bergamot, melon, cyclamen, osmanthus, orris, jasmine, rose, rosewood, sandalwood, amber, musk, moss, cedar.

Sunflowers was a pleasant surprise. Very nicely done scent with a strong woodsy floral showing. Get it for the fragrance if you like it, but don’t worry too much about the bottle.

Reviewed in This Post: Sunflowers, 2009, Eau de Toilette.

Yves Rocher Ming Shu

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Sadly I’m running low on the classics department for fragrances earlier than the 80s. When I first started doing these reviews, I was skeptical about how good the old classics could really be. And sure enough, I fell in love with the old perfumes. Ming Shu, on the other hand, isn’t even that old of a fragrance, but even it has been toned down.

Ming Shu

Ming Shu

In Bottle: Very floral, the water lilies are making quite a loud entrance.

Applied: Funny that the peach doesn’t factor into this at all because I immediately get water lily. Lots and lots of water lilies. They’re slick and floral and fresh. In fact, they’re a bit too fresh and a bit too loud. It’s like I can hardly focus on anything else because Ming Shu is cramming water lilies into my nose. The cedar note comes in a bit later, but cedar to me as always been a bit heavy-handed and it only serves to add to the loudness of the water lilies here. I’m not a fan of this, unfortunately. There’s only about two notes to my nose and neither of them are getting along with me. They end up too overwhelming to me, and too basic at the same time.

Extra: Ming Shu was released in the late 90s. This version and it’s other iterations are a little tricky to find, but not impossible.

Design: Bottle in a pagoda inspired style. I’m not sure how much I embrace this kind of design as the bottle on the one hand looks like a pagoda, and on the other it looks like a pylon or traffic cone. Perhap’s it’s both. I’m not a bit fan of the design.

Fragrance Family: Fresh Floral

Notes: Peach, water lily, cedar, musk.

Another fragrance casualty of the toning down movement. Ming Shu in the 90s was reportedly a much nicer, much more complex, much more likable a fragrance than it is now.

Reviewed in This Post: Ming Shu, 2011, L’Eau de Toilette.

Heidi Klum Me

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If I were ever in the position to have a fragrance made for me, I’d probably be unimaginative enough to just call it, “Me”. It’s really too bad Heidi Klum already beat me to it.

Me

Me

In Bottle: Fresh is probably the one and only word I’ve got for Me. The melon is pretty prominent to my nose along with the clean florals in the middle.

Applied: It’s got a nice blast of fruitiness that mellows into this juicy, clean melon scent which does a nice job eventually moving into an also pleasant and clean floral mid-stage that’s marked with a bit of sparkle and shine. There’s nothing so bold as an aldehyde in this, but the musk couldn’t be anything but white and the woods and vanilla couldn’t be anything but scrubbed with all impurities removed before being bottled. Me is quintessentially young, clean, and fresh. It’s a nice, mild-mannered scent for everyday wear.

Extra: Me was released in 2006 and hasn’t really garnered as much success as some celebrity perfumes. It seems to occupy that dark corner of celebrity fragrances where the lesser known perfumes with celebrity names hang out.

Design: Me isn’t very pretty. It’s actually rather bland in aesthetic and a little bit clunky too. It’s bottled in this roundish container with a standard baby pink cap that doesn’t do much for it’s appeal. It’s not ugly, not pretty, and ultimately not very memorable.

Fragrance Family: Fresh Fruity

Notes: Blackcurrant, apple, melon, pepper, violet, water lily, jasmine, plum, woods, sandalwood, vanilla, musk.

If you want a well done fresh melon and floral scent, then Me is your stuff. You can actually buy this stuff on the Heidi Klum website. Enjoy.

Reviewed in This Post: Me, 2006, Eau de Parfum.