Givenchy Ange ou Demon

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From the other reviews I’ve read, it seems Ange ou Demon used to be something much better than the iteration I smelled. There’s a lot of bitterness for the silent reformulation of this fragrance and I regret not having smelled its original incarnation.

Ange ou Demon

Ange ou Demon

In Bottle: Looking at the notes list, I wouldn’t have pegged any of those to be in this fragrance. My impression is a very sweet rather girlish fragrance. Certainly not one that I could see the likes of rosewood and oak moss being present. This smells like fruity candy basically.

Applied: Very sweet fruity opening that reminds me a bit of Coco Mademoiselle’s very sweet opening without the amber or the powderiness. Ange ou Demon is like a slap in the face with a bag of hard candies. It quickly becomes cloying before it even starts introducing other notes into the mix. As I keep wearing it, there’s a few flowers that come in, none of them very deep but they do add themselves to the fruity candy mixture in the opening so what I end up getting is this sweet flowery mess that doesn’t smell like a high-end fragrance should smell like. Basically, it smells sloppily put together. Like someone mixed two incompatible perfumes together. The dry down doesn’t make things much better as that annoying cloying sweetness sidles up to the vanilla in the base to take Ange ou Demon out to end what was ultimately a pretty banal and semi-annoying performance.

Extra: Seems to me like sometime in the last few years Ange ou Demon went from a more sophisticated spicy floral scent to what it is now as a candy-laden mess. A shame, really, as the previous version sounded brilliant.

Design: I rather like the bottle design even though it can be a bit over the top. It reminds me of a jewel or a geode or something rocky and sparkling like that. The bottle itself is easy to hold and use though so I’m happy with it.

Fragrance Family: Sweet Floral

Notes: Mandarin,  cumin, saffron, lily, orchid, ylang-ylang, rosewood , oak moss, vanilla, tonka.

If there was more to this fragrance, I really missed it. The notes list makes Ange ou Demon sound so awesome. Cumon, saffron, rosewood and oak moss. All hugely sophisticated and beautiful notes but I got none of that. Instead, I got a flower covered lollipop.

Reviewed in This Post: Ange ou Demon, 2011, Eau de Parfum.

Thierry Mugler Womanity

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I put off reviewing Womanity for a while so I could get used to her and how she smells and hopefully come to understand where it is she’s coming from and she’s still confusing the living daylights out of me.

Womanity

Womanity

In Bottle: Okay, this is just going to sound silly but I’m going to come out and say it because it’s the honest truth. Womanity reminds me of lobster. A big old dish of lobster with that slightly salty, slightly fishy, slightly sweet and buttery smell to it. There. My opinion is out. It’s lobster.

Applied: I’m hit with a strange mixture of woods and spices with a mingling hint of sweetness all layered over this tangible saltiness in the fragrance. It’s strange because you can almost taste the salt. The caviar might be what I’m attributing to the saltiness in this and I think it might be messing with my image of the fragrance because, once again, Womanity makes me think of lobster. There’s a slight fishiness to the fragrance upon first application that does eventually go away as you continue to wear it. The fragrance digs into this sweeter and fresher territory as it ages into a lovely mixture of scent that I can only describe as clean and briny. I know how bizarre my description of Womanity is right now. I’m all sorts of confused at this point which is when Womanity heads into its base with a slight amp to its spiciness to add to that clean brine smell. If I had to make this as simple as possible, I’d say the opening is salty and reminds me of lobster. The midstage is a fresh and slightly salty fragrance with a hint of spice settled with a sweet figgy note. The base is spice, fading fig and brine. It’s weird, but it doesn’t smell bad. I wouldn’t stretch it and say I like how it smells either. It’s certainly unique but I don’t know if I could wear it.

Extra: So Womanity’s given me a run for my money. I still don’t know if I could classify it as okay, all I know is that I appreciate it’s bizarreness but I wouldn’t wear it as a fragrance. It’s fun just to sniff now and then though, just to give my mind something to think about.

Design: I do like the design. It reminds me a bit of punk rock meets cyberpunk meets Barbie. The pink juice is clearly the Barbie part. One of the better designed Thierry Mugler bottles, in my opinion. I love just holding this thing too. It’s like holding a weird alien artifact. The bottle has a nice weight to it. I love the feel of it and the sprayer is fantastic.

Fragrance Family: Fresh

Notes: Citrus, caviar, fig, woods.

Am I the only one who doesn’t like the smell that money leaves in my hand after I’ve handled a bunch of coins but I always end up going back and smelling it just for the sole purpose of confusing myself and reaffirming my dislike for how it smells? It kind of feels like that with Womanity. In that I’m pretty sure I don’t like how it smells but I keep going back and smelling it anyway.

Reviewed in This Post: Womanity, 2010, Eau de Parfum.

Justin Bieber Someday

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Okay, let’s get a few ground rules down before I get into the meat of this fragrance review. 1) Justin Bieber does not know how to compose a fragrance and did not personally compose this fragrance. He may have been given some samplers and told to pick his favorite. 2) Justin Bieber is probably the last person who would know what a woman wants to smell like anyway. 3) This stuff doesn’t smell bad, it just smells like generic celebrity perfume chaff.

Someday

Someday

In Bottle: Sweet fruity floral. It’s very light and easy to wear, but also smells really generic because there’s nothing that sets this fruity floral sweet and clean deal apart from any other fragrance like it.

Applied: Soft, slightly sweet, and clean fruity opening with a clear floral heart. There’s jasmine in this for sure, a little bit of lily of the valley I think and probably some sweet and unassuming little flower like heliotrope or freesia. As the fragrance ages, the florals come up a bit more but the scent never really goes anywhere exciting nor does it get any stronger. I don’t think I should even go into complexity because there’s not a whole lot of that going on in this fragrance either. This stuff is light and you may find yourself having to apply a lot of it. I can’t say much for it aside from the fact that it’s got a focus on light and clean florals. The dry down is unexciting with a very sheer blend of white musk and light vanilla flowers.

Extra: You’ve probably heard by now how similar the bottle design for Someday is compared to Marc Jacobs Lola. Well, the similarities are there but at the very least the bottle for Someday isn’t an almost identical rip-off of Lola like a certain other perfume.

Design: I’m not wild about the design of the bottle. Even the commercial for this fragrance couldn’t really make it look good. The design is amateurish to be honest and comparing it to Lola seems a little insulting. Lola’s a well-balanced, if a little bit loud, of a design. Someday looks like a wobbly child’s art experiment. Maybe I just don’t see the appeal of the bulbous bottle design and the weird flower/heart cap thing. Maybe I’m just too old to think this looks good? Who knows. I just don’t like it.

Fragrance Family: Fruity Floral

Notes: Mandarin, pear, wild berries, jasmine, creamy flowers, vanilla, musk.

So bottom line is Someday is an easy to wear, easygoing light floral scent and you aren’t going to stink if you decide to go out and throw down some cash for this stuff. It’s not special, it’s not unique, but it isn’t bad either.

Reviewed in This Post: Someday, 2011, Eau de Parfum.

Demeter Vanilla Ice Cream

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I don’t know what to say about Demeter’s more literal fragrances like Vanilla Ice Cream. The stuff smells like actual vanilla ice cream. Though I do get a bit of a synthetic vanilla vibe from this one. It is still a very good interpretation.

Vanilla Ice Cream

Vanilla Ice Cream

In Bottle: Rich, creamy, vanilla ice cream. It’s like the liquid essence and I like how it smells but there’s a certain plastic or synthetic quality to the vanilla that I can over look because everything else about the initial in-bottle sniff is so authentic.

Applied: Synthetic plastic vanilla that’s too sweet and too loud upon application. It is reminiscent of vanilla extract, the kind that you can buy at grocery stores that’s super sweet and has a bit of a licorice flavor (am I just crazy?) to it. I’m not wild about the vanilla note in this but most of the vanilla notes in your generic vanilla ice cream is of the loud, synthetic-like vanilla anyway. So it’s an authentic experience to be sure, but the authenticity is mimicking standard ice cream instead of gourmet stuff. The dry down comes really fast for a vanilla-based fragrance as the base turns a little darker while still maintaining its super sweet vanilla-like scent. The fragrance is pretty much one-dimensional and has pretty poor longevity (less than an hour of wear on my skin) but, like I said, it’s very authentic if you’re looking at generic ice creams.

Extra: There are a number of things I would have done differently with a vanilla ice cream inspired scent. I would use higher quality vanilla for one so that the fragrance takes on a spicy, dense quality instead of the syrupy sweet stuff that dominates this fragrance. I’d also give it a stronger base, and do something to make this stuff last longer. There were many ways this could have been done better but I suppose it’s ultimately achieving what Demeter set out to do; make a generic vanilla ice cream scent.

Design: The bottles are pretty basic, small and rectangular in shape. No thrills or frills. You get a pretty lackluster label with the bottle but then Demeter fragrances aren’t about the packaging. The bottle is fine. You may be interested to note that most of my Demeter bottles are the refillable type.

Fragrance Family: Gourmand

Notes: Sugar, vanilla, cream.

This is a good fragrance for you if you’re looking for an affordable straight-up vanilla scent and don’t care about synthetic vanilla vs. spicy vanilla. This stuff will deliver a sugary sweet rather authentic experience for a pretty cheap price. Just keep in mind that the longevity on this stuff seriously sucks.

Reviewed in This Post: Vanilla Ice Cream, 2010, Cologne Spray.

Lancome Tresor

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I know I haven’t done any reviews of Lancôme’s fragrances because very few of their fragrances interest me. The scents are fine, of course, but they all seem to hit an off note on my skin.

Tresor

Tresor

In Bottle: Very strong but the notes are all blended together to form a rather generic perfume scent that isn’t very pleasing to me. It’s generic-smelling right from the get-go and that disturbs me a bit.

Applied: Goes on with a slightly fruity and sweet sheerness that’s rather pleasant. A powderiness approaches the opening turning the fruity sweetness into something akin to sugar dust. The florals amp up next taking the scent into the mid-stage with a sweet jasmine and rose combination. Now, jasmine and rose are two of the most common floral notes in perfumes and the result is a rather generic floral scent unless something else in the fragrance is helping it hold its own. So far Trésor’s sticking to a pretty generic scent as the jasmine and rose combination dominate the mid-stage with a few wafts of iris and that sweet sugar dusting wiggle in and out of the scent. The dry down is an unremarkable affair too with a sandalwood note layered over vanilla and a very subtle dirty amber note.

Extra: Trésor’s considered to be a classic smelling perfume amongst some circles. To me, she’s not so much a classic as she is a generic. I smell Trésor and I think generic floral mostly due to how strong the jasmine and rose notes were in the mid-stage for me.

Design: Trésor’s design is an interesting jewel-like bottle. It also bears a resemblance to a pyramid in a way and reminds me also of honeycomb. I don’t know why but the design is decent, not garish but not exactly to my tastes. I do think it is well done though.

Fragrance Family: Floral

Notes: Pineapple, peach, lilac, bergamot, apricot blossom, lily of the valley, rose, orris, heliotrope, jasmine, apricot, peach, musk, sandalwood, amber, vanilla.

What I think of Trésor I can pretty much apply to the other fragrances from Lancôme. At least for their recent releases anyway. I haven’t had the gumption to dig up a sample of Climat though I have it on good word that it’s a beautiful piece of classical perfumery.

Reviewed in This Post: Trésor, 2008, Eau de Parfum.

Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier Bahiana

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We’re stuck in the middle of summer and what better way to celebrate the excruciating heat than to load up on the tropical scents and pretend we’re lounging on a well-groomed beach instead of sweating out our livelihoods in an office with poor air circulation?

Bahiana

Bahiana

In Bottle: Bahiana smells like a little touch of tropical inspired paradise. It’s not really unique in that it smells largely like many tropical inspired fragrances. But it does come up smelling very well made.

Applied: A nice hit of sweet citrus up front to introduce the refreshing feel of this fragrance, followed by a nice little dose of green woodsiness. Refreshing is the word, with a hint of sophistication as Bahiana sends in the tropical duo of coconut and pineapple. What I’m left with is a very rapidly aging fragrance that settles into a comfortable niche of woodsy coconut, pineapple, and a soft breeze. I really like it. But is it really special? Eh, not so much. What Bahiana is, however, is a very well made fragrance. I can smell the clean coconut in this. It isn’t that sour, weird coconut that goes into some cheaper fragrances. This stuff is on par with the coconut note in Virgin Island Water. Cool, refreshing, and just a tad more authentic. Nicely done, Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier!

Extra: My one complaint with Bahiana is its lasting power. It’s quick to go on and go through its motions and then disappear. There’s very little left by the end except a faint waft of woodsiness, which is more than I can say about Virgin Island Water’s complete disappearing act.

Design: Due to the lack of stores available nearby that carry Maitre Parfumeur et Gantier, I have yet to hold this bottle. From the images of it, however, it looks absolutely fantastic. An awesome marriage of perfume and whimsy with those feathers attached to the bottle.

Fragrance Family: Fresh Fruity

Notes: Orange, caipirinha limon, mandarin, tagette, green leaf, rosewood, gaiac wood, elemi, amber, musk, coconut.

So is the fact that Bahiana smells well-made compared to other tropical-like scents worth the money? To me, probably. There’s a big difference to me when it comes to using the right amount or right type of coconut in a fragrance and the synthetic-smelling, sour coconut that shows up in many tropical scents is distracting for me. So distracting that I’d probably pay the premium for a niche house that houses the right note.

Reviewed in This Post: Bahiana, 2009, Eau de Toilette.

Guerlain Lipsticks Named After Perfumes

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Guerlain has been selling their Rouge Automatique lipsticks for a little while. The most notable thing about this line of lipsticks–and why I’m discussing makeup on a perfume blog–are the names being used. Guerlain’s calling their lipstick shades after their classic perfumes.That’s right, you can get Shalimar, Mitsouko, Vol de Nuit and even Jicky in lipstick form.

Rogue Automatique Lipsticks

Rouge Automatique Lipsticks

It’s totally a gimmick but I love the naming scheme and I love the classical look of the lipstick “tubes”. The major downer about these lipsticks are the price. Being Guerlain products, these are not cheap which is really where a lot of makeup consumers might fall off the interest bandwagon. I can add, however, that the lipsticks themselves are not just cheaply made bullets slapped into gimmicky packaging and given gimmicky names. The product is actually very good, has a great consistency, and a faint and pleasing aroma. I just wish the price was a little more sane.

Oh and I should mention this because I was curious about it too until I actually got to handle one for myself–the packaging material is plastic. I know, it looks nice and looks like it’d be a brilliant piece of metal packaging (like Guerlain’s luxurious Rouge G line) but it’s, unfortunately, just plastic.

Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab Josie

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Josie is a member of Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s District line of fragrances that focus on the sensual side of smell. Josie, in my case, hits a nice little sweet spot I have for peach notes. Josie

In Bottle: Strong. I mean, up your nose and clear out your sinuses strong. Josie is a heavy handed dose of sweet peach candy with a dollop of honey and a light dusting of sweet magnolia flowers. Yikes.

Applied: This fragrance is no wilting flower. It’s loud on application and remains loud until a few hours in. Your first impression of Josie is likely to be her very sugary personality that plays up the honeyed peach angle. If you aren’t partial to sugar, you might want to consider a difference fragrance because this stuff can be cloying. It dries down to a finer peach with a little less overbearing sweetness as the magnolia makes faint efforts to make itself present but don’t go digging into Josie looking for florals, she’s peach candy and honey for most of the ride. If you’re looking for something like a refreshing peach, you may have to look elsewhere. If you just want sweet peach candy then Josie should be up your alley.

Extra: I do like Josie, or at least like her concept of a simple sweet peachy fragrance. But she is very sweet and a bit too young for me now. If you liked Katie Perry’s Purr fragrance but wanted even more peachy goodness then give BPAL’s Josie a sniff.

Design: Bottled in a similar manner to BPAL’s other fragrances. You will get an amber colored glass vial with a plastic stopper. The label for Josie differs a bit from the other BPAL fragrances as it features artwork by the very talented, Molly Crabapple.

Fragrance Family: Fruity

Notes: Honey, magnolia, peach.

Ultimately, Josie falls a bit flat on me because she’s just too sweet and I expected her to have a bit more temperance. Still, whenever I see someone ask for a peach fragrance I’m tempted to tell them to smell this.

Reviewed in This Post: Josie, 2010, 5ml Bottle.

Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille

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When I ask people what fragrance can be a stand in for Spiritueuse Double Vanille, people often say try Tobacco Vanille. But when I tried Tobacco Vanille, I found these two fragrances too different.

Tobacco Vanille

In Bottle: Seems Tom Ford fragrances have a tendency to be on the strong side. Tobacco Vanille is a sharp smoky vanilla upon first whiff. The first whiff was all it took for the scent to travel up my nose. I think one of those cardinal rules you learn in middle school science class applies here; waft, don’t whiff.

Applied: On the skin Tobacco Vanille behaves a bit better for me. This is all tobacco and vanilla that sort of smoky, warm, creamy scent that’s sort of echoed in Spirituese Double Vanille. Unlike in SDV, Tobacco Vanille has a less woodsy and less boozy smokiness to it. This smokiness is coming from a pipe tobacco scent. And let’s not confuse tobacco used as a fragrance with the often sour smoky smell of a cigarette. This stuff is smooth and clean and smells a bit more like burning leaves with a very nice smooth character. As the fragrance ages, I get a bit more of the other notes in this, particularly the hints of woodsiness here and there and occassionally a good sniff of spices. There isn’t much else I can say about Tobacco Vanille. It’s a smoky vanilla scent, a couple of notches away from SDV though these two could be pretty close cousins. I still like the touch of booziness in SDV and the more woodsy character in that fragrance though.

Extra: Tobacco Vanille is a member of Tom Ford’s premium line of fragrances called the Private Blends. I had a devil of a time tracking down an actual bottle and didn’t end up liking it enough to drop over $300 on a bottle.

Design: The Private Blends are bottled a bit differently than other Tom Ford scents. I’ve seen various styles and all of them are very pleasing. There’s the style shown above that I see most often but the bottle I sampled out of had a square cap instead of a round one. I believe the style of bottle differs depending on how much juice you’re getting.

Fragrance Family: Smoky Gourmand

Notes: Tobacco leaf, spices, tonka bean, vanilla, cacao, wood sap.

Lovely as this is, it didn’t sway me from the SDV crowd. I’m still a big fan of Spiritueuse Double Vanille. Though Tobacco Vanille can scratch a very small itch if it came down to the wire.

Reviewed in This Post: Tobacco Vanille, 2009, Eau de Parfum.