The Popular Classics You Have to Smell

Anybody interested in perfume and perfume history would know about most of the popular classic fragrances. Many perfumistas probably own some. But for the rest of us who are fledgling perfumistas and curious bystanders here is a list of popular and accessible classics that I believe everyone should have a sniff of. The older the better! But smelling some of the new stuff will still lend you a pretty good idea–most of the time.

In no particular order:

Chanel No. 5 – Anyone with a nose has probably caught a whiff of this timeless aldehyde. Released in 1921, Chanel No. 5 continues to top the charts as one of the most successful and popular fragrances of the 20th and 21st century. If you want to know what a classic aldehyde smells like, look no further.

Robert Piguet Fracas – A bed of potent tuberose strong enough to clear the sinuses of everyone within a hundred yard radius. Fracas is the quintessential tuberose scent unleashed on the world in 1948.

Guerlain Mitsouko – Mitsouko is as relevant today as she was in 1919 when she was released. Built off of Coty’s Chypre, Mitsouko has stood the test of time and is now the scent to smell if you are interested in a fruity chypre.

Guerlain Shalimar – No list is complete without Shalimar, the elegant sensual oriental whose popularity hasn’t waned since its release in 1925.

Estée Lauder Youth Dew – The fragrance that people most often refer to as, “Smells Like Grandma”. Youth Dew is actually a beautifully done, extremely potent spicy oriental that rocketed to fame in the 1950s and was one of the first perfumes to be endorsed by Hollywood Starlets.

Estée Lauder White Linen – The classic clean rose aldehyde with a touch of civet. Released in 1978.

Ralph Lauren Polo – One of the most iconic and recognizable men’s fragrances. Polo was released in 1978, a true 70s Powerhouse.

Joy by Jean Patou – Released in 1930, Joy smelled like a little ray of floral sunshine during one of the United States’ most trying eras. Funny enough, it was once billed as the most expensive fragrance in the world.

Yves Saint Laurent Opium – Opium is the poster child oriental fragrance released in 1977.

Thierry Mugler Angel – The youngest classic that I’m willing to put on this list, Angel was everywhere following its 1992 release and it is still everywhere as a testament to its achievement as the first gourmand.

To  round things out, please remember that the fragrances featured on this list are accessible and popular. There are many, many classics that I wanted to add from Coty, Caron, Hubigant, many more Guerlains, and Chanels but this list had to remain accessible so anything that I couldn’t readily find at a department store had to be cut.

Start your classics sniffing with this list but don’t stop here. This is just a stepping stone as there are hundreds of classics out here that need to be sniffed too. If you feel that I’ve missed something on this list please leave a comment.


Guerlain Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat

Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat is probably one of my favorite Guerlain fragrances. So it’s a good bit of fortune that I came upon it recently at La Signature at Disney Epcot in Florida. Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat is a classic from 1920 that is available at better stocked Guerlain counters, but more exclusively than Shalimar. Nothing wrong with you, Shalimar.  I just see you everywhere. Eau de Fleurs de Cedrat

In Bottle: Lemons! I hope you like lemons because Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat is a big lemon tree. Green and crisp and citrus and fresh. Lacking the notable Guerlain base but still so lovely all the same.

Applied: Sweet lemon candy is a strange introduction into Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat but it’s a welcome one as the fragrance matures immediately into a cool lemon. As this is a pretty simple mixture with low concentration Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat is a fleeting scent, even on clothing. It’s even more fleeting on the skin. After the lemon candy dissolves a bit, the lemon dominates the scene and an hour later, you’re left with a soft light, floral quality that’s just barely there and extremely fleeting. Don’t wear this if you want longevity. This fragrance has no base stage and I hesitate to say it may not have much of a mid-stage either. Wear if you want a quick fresh burst of fragrance from a sophisticated lemon-like note. I’ve had trouble with lemon notes in other fragrances so I was pleased to note that cedrat is not lemon necessarily but a close relative that smells much better on me. The cedrat in Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat is a lovely, soft, crisp little thing that won’t overstay its welcome or yell the entire time it’s there.

Extra: Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat is pretty much what its name suggestions. It’s a flower and citron. It’s not trying to be anything else and if you do expect more complexity, this isn’t the place to look. The cedrat is similar to a lemon but has an icy and more candy-like fragrance. It smells remarkably similar to a lemon, but in a fragrance it couldn’t behave more differently.

Design: Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat comes in a bee bottle design as a 100ml bottle. Lovely molded glass with bee designs on the glass itself. It both looks and feels luxurious , which is why I adore the bee bottles so much.

Fragrance Family: Fresh Citrus

Notes: Citron, white florals.

La Signature, also known by many Epcot patrons as, “That store that sells really expensive French perfume that I’ve never heard of”, is probably the best place to go–short of Paris–for a big selection of Guerlain fragrances and their cosmetics line. I don’t  use their cosmetics but the amount of Guerlain perfumes they’ve got there is fantastic.

Reviewed in This Post: Eau de Fleurs de Cédrat, circa 2008, Eau de Cologne.


How Perfume Notes Work

Talk in any sort of depth about perfume and you will probably encounter the word, “Note”. So what are perfume notes, what are these things that list them, and how do they work anyway?

A note in perfume refers to a single scent. Perfumes are made from many different notes blended together. For example, jasmine is a note featured in Chanel No.5. Notes are categorized in layers, from top notes, middle notes, and base notes. Perfumes work through evaporation and it is often the top notes that evaporate first and are the first notes you smell when you spray or apply perfume. The evaporation is followed by the middle notes and finally the base notes. Slofe

Contrary to popular belief, the perfume notes you see listed on perfume reviews, on the fragrance itself, or sites that sell perfume are not ingredients lists. They are also not 100% accurate descriptors of what the fragrance actually contains.

Notes listings are used by the perfume reviewer or the marketers of the perfume to describe what you may experience when you use the scent. Many times these notes lists are missing many, many, many other scents in the perfume itself. Fragrances are highly complex and some can have hundreds of different scents in them and nothing, short of gas chromatography, will be able to tell you for sure all of the notes in a perfume.

So with all this secrecy, what good are notes lists then? Simply put, notes lists help consumers imagine what a fragrance might smell like and help them determine if they would like that scent. While you cannot instantly know what a fragrance smells like until you stick your nose in, you can get a general idea using a notes list–most of the time. Notes can also help guide people through the progression of a fragrance by giving them a general idea of what they might be smelling.

In the end, notes are a mechanism for giving perfume sniffers an idea of what they’re experiencing. But they shouldn’t be used as a be all and end all list of ingredients because they aren’t.


Creed Love in White

Love in White is one of those fragrances with a wide split between people who love it and people who hate it. It’s Creed’s answer to the ultimate fresh fragrance. This stuff is so fresh and crisp it makes my eyes water. Billed as a women’s fragrance, Love in White comes in a cute, feminine white bottle that’s supposed to represent a woman, the sand, and the sea. I can dig it. Love in White

In Bottle: Sweetness, aqua, and something sharp. Like sugar water with broken bits of glass and twisted pieces of metal. Love in White is strong too. So strong that my first whiff of it went straight up my nose and exploded in the back of my head. The sharpness that I assume might be the zest is so strong in this that it went beyond fine fragrance and reminded me of household cleaner.

Applied: Not much dying down of that sharp note on application but I do get the rest of the fragrance now that it’s on my skin. It’s like somebody turned up the volume on the jasmine note here because it’s very high-pitched, almost shrill as it tries to out sing the sandalwood. Meanwhile, iris with its rather distinct brightness is adding to the fresh feel. There’s got to be some aqua note in this because I swear I can smell water. I suppose that’s where the ocean imagery comes from but so much of this fragrance is clean and fresh that it’s hard to move beyond those two concepts to something gentler. The dry down helps a bit, the sharpness fades and the florals have sore throats and are now just whispering. I can appreciate the quiet calm of the dry down here as the soft creaminess of that vanilla shows up to help tame the sandalwood a little.

Extra: Love in White kind of reminds me of household cleaners. Not in a bad way. I mean, household cleaners contain fragrances meant to offend the least amount of people. Love in White is that inoffensive. The thing I can fault it for is how close it has to stick to my skin so I have to get up really close and personal. And when I’m that close, the fragrance is incredibly strong.

Design: The white bottle for Love in White is supposed to represent the feminine, the ocean and the crisp ocean air. I’m not sure I’m really feeling the look of the bottle or the conceptualization of it but it is pleasant enough to look at.

Fragrance Family: Fresh

Notes: Orange zest, rice husk, iris, jasmine, daffodil, magnolia, rose, vanilla, ambergris, Mysore sandalwood.

When it’s all said and done Love in White is a very fresh sort of shrill scent with a loud projection that also manages to stick relatively close to the skin. I have to get up close to really smell it but once I’m that close I also tend to get its entire assault up my nose.

Reviewed in This Post: Love in White, 2010, Sample vial.


Demeter Earl Grey Tea

I spent a lot of time trying to find just the perfect tea fragrance. Something that smells exactly like a cup of earl grey tea without any other fluff surrounding it. I tried Black Phoenix Alchemy Labs with notes that were supposed to smell like earl grey tea but found there were other notes getting int he way. I tried niche and mainstream and finally I decided to settle down and see if Demeter Fragrance Library could get me any closer to that earl grey scent. Earl Grey Tea

In Bottle: Bergamot with a squeeze of lemon, I think. There is a heavy, gritty, dusty note settled on a black tea like note underneath the citrus opener. It’s almost like smelling a cup of weak tea with a sprinkling of dust on top.

Applied: Bergamot comes roaring out on the entryway, dragging this very bright yellow lemon behind it. The dynamic citrus duo is followed by a really strong hit of black tea. This is the earl grey scent I’ve been looking for. No punches pulled, no extra fluff, just plain old earl grey with a squeeze of lemon. It smells as advertised and I’m just delighted! Then, just as quickly as I was delighted, Earl Grey Tea disappears on me. It packs its bags and heads out the door, leaving almost nothing but its slightly astringent black tea scent. And after a few more minutes, even that’s gone. I understand this cologne is truly meant as a very temporary burst of happiness and amazement but the longest I’ve ever gotten Earl Grey Tea to stay on my skin was around thirty minutes. I’ve tried lotion, I’ve tried using more, I’ve sprayed it on my clothes but this stuff just wasn’t meant to last. It’s fabulous while it’s there though, as close to earl grey tea as any perfume has gotten so far.

Extra: Demeter Fragrance Library, instead of focusing on complex evolutions of top, middle and base notes,  focuses more on creating scents to invoke memories. They have a huge selection of literal interpretation fragrances. If you think you might like Earl Grey Tea, why not try out their Orange Cream Pop fragrance? Dirt is a very popular one, and their Espresso scent might send you to the nearest Starbucks after sniffing.

Design: Really simple bottle. Glass cylinder with a metal cap. The sprayer distributes a larger than normal amount of fragrance but trust me, it’s necessary here. The labels and packaging are fairly simple but there’s not much complaint on my end here. Demeter doesn’t charge anywhere near as much as other fragrance houses might so I’m more than happy with the packaging we do get.

Fragrance Family: Gourmand

Notes: Bergamot, lemon, black tea.

Gourmand, not gourmand? It smells good enough to drink to me. In either case, one could spend a lot of time smelling the offerings from Demeter but don’t forget that one of the founding noses of Demeter has branched off to form his own line too. Christopher Brosius creates fragrances under CB I Hate Perfume.

Reviewed in This Post: Earl Grey Tea, 2009, Pick-Me-Up Cologne Spray.


Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab The Girl

One of my favorite pairings, florals and amber. The Girl is, well, feminine. But I don’t like assigning seasons, genders, or occupations to certain scents. I will say that this is a lovely, pure amber fragrance that doesn’t try to muddy the waters by adding in too many florals. The Girl is a limited edition fragrance from Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab’s 2009 Halloween limited edition run. The Girl

In Bottle: Light jasmine and ylang-ylang. Smooth fragrance with a nice sweet amber and almost vanilla scent. The heart of this fragrance is in the amber and the florals are used as backing for this. There’s a bit of woodsiness in this too which helps cut up the smoothness with a bit of dry airiness.

Applied: Strangely enough the musk is one of the first things I get. Clean and smooth initially as the florals catch up to the party. Jasmine has less of a presence here than ylang-ylang but neither of them are really stars. They seem to be there to bolster this pretty white amber and touch of vanilla scent. Meanwhile the musk is still hanging around giving this an older, more sophisticated, quality while still maintaining the fragrance’s smooth amber floral scent. It’s just hard to describe The Girl. It’s a well-blended fragrance. On the dry down I’m smelling a bit more of the woods as the amber and vanilla chill out a little bit. And I mean, literally chill out. The Girl takes a turn for the cold and ethereal on dry down.

Extra: Immortelle, one of the featured notes in The Girl, is used to refer to a number of flowers in which one particular species can be steam distilled for its essential oil. Which smells like rubbery honey to me.

Design: The Girl is contained in a 5ml amber glass bottle with a plastic top. It has a limited edition label with the house name fragrance name on it.

Fragrance Family: Oriental

Notes: White amber, silver birch, immortelle, davana, pale musk, star jasmine, and ylang ylang.

I wouldn’t say The Girl is a typical oriental but its focus on the amber and vanilla helps it in that direction. If you’re looking for oriental in the classical sense, you would need to look more into Mitsouko or Shalimar. The Girl is a much more modern smelling oriental that’s in and of the same vein of L’Instant de Guerlain or Allure by Chanel.

Reviewed in This Post: The Girl, 2009, 5ml Bottle.


Montale White Musk

When people think “musk” their thoughts tend to gravitate toward the animalistic musks like civet then they wrinkle their noses thinking about intrepid perfumers chasing down civet cats in the jungles of the world. Very few fragrances still use naturally derived musks. Most of them are synthetics these days and hardly smell anything near animalistic. Montale White Musk

In Bottle: Bright, pure and clean. White Musk smells like lightly perfumed water. It’s airy, translucent and fleeting like the molecules of some fabulous fragrance is carried by the wind to you. With that having been said White Musk, due to its nature, is extremely light and fleeting. Even in the vial, after a couple of sniffs, it becomes hard to detect.

Applied: Very, very, very light. I would have to bathe in this stuff to get anywhere close to the average strength that other fragrances enjoy. White Musk is a blank (in a good way), refreshing, powdery scent. Sort of reminiscent of baby powder but a great deal prettier with hints of sweet florals in it. Think luxury powder in a gilded silver case. It’s also soapy and very clean. I don’t feel like this fragrance is meant to be an entity of its own. Rather it’s a natural scent enhancer and the fragrance is just so happy, light, perky and soft.

Extra: Montale is a French niche perfume house headed by Pierre Montale. The house focuses on agar wood (oud) fragrances. They also have a line of regular perfume from which White Musk is a part of.

Design: Montale’s fragrances come in a metal bottle with a signature look. I have yet to actually hold one in my hand but the design itself is iconic for Montale fragrances and it looks attractive enough. At least it’s a step beyond the standard rectangle glass bottle affair that most niche houses would swear by.

Fragrance Family: Fresh

Notes: White musk, violet, ylang-ylang, geranium.

Probably one of the more common misconceptions about perfumes is the discussion on musk. A lot of people associate the word “musk” with dirty, sweaty, or stinky smells. Musk is often used as a scent fixative in many perfumes. These days there are thousands of synthetic musks in use that don’t smell at all sweaty, stinky or animalistic. Synthetic musks are great examples. With their usually clean, almost invisible sheerness, that makes them great fixatives for fresher, cleaner, modern fragrances.

Reviewed in This Post: White Musk, 2010, Eau de Parfum.


The Dangers of Counterfeit Perfumes

Perfume is a luxury and as a luxury, it is naturally expensive. A 100ml bottle of niche perfume can be hundreds of dollars. And even if you’ve caught the fume bug, paying hundreds of bucks for a fragrance can be absurd or just plain impossible for some people.

This is where counterfeits come into play. Imagine going onto eBay and coming across an auction offering Amouage’s Homage Attar for $20 (Homage Attar normally retails for approx. $350). The photo the seller supplies looks like a real bottle of Homage Attar. The seller claims they’re a professional. They claim to only sell authentic fragrances. And they seem to have pretty good ratings from buyers. The price is just so good that to not buy would be a prime opportunity lost. But is it too good to be true?

Why do people buy counterfeit perfumes?

There are two types of people who end up buying counterfeit perfumes. The knowing buyer and the unknowing buyer. People who knowingly buy counterfeit perfumes believe the fakes to be as good as the real deal but at a fraction of the cost. This is completely untrue as counterfeits are often made using lower grade materials.

Unknowing buyers purchase counterfeits because they were lied to or just don’t know they’re walking off with a fake. Buying a fake bottle that you thought was real is an embarrassing and frustrating ordeal. But as the fragrance industry grows, so does the counterfeiting industry. The counterfeit problem doesn’t go away no matter what you’re into. There are counterfeit clothes, counterfeit handbags, counterfeit electronics, even children’s toys are counterfeited. Your best defense against buying a shoddy product is research and knowledge.

Why do counterfeits exist?

Perfume is a multi-billion dollar industry. People love fragrances. And a lot of fragrances, particularly the designer and more popular niche brands, rake in a lot of money. They also tend to be expensive and many people believe perfumes are overpriced. So you end up with a lot of consumers who are looking for deals. Add  expensive and desirable luxury items to consumers who want them but don’t feel they’re the appropriate price and you get a prime environment for counterfeits.

Where are counterfeits sold?

The vast majority of people who encounter counterfeit perfumes find them online. There are many unscrupulous sellers claiming to be legitimate discounters, fake websites claiming to sell authentic products, or bad eBay sellers hocking fake products to unknowing online buyers. Flea markets, street stands, and bargain stores are also rife with fake perfumes because the people selling them either don’t know they’re selling fakes or know full well and just want to make a quick buck. One of the ways to tell if a perfume is fake is by looking at the price. If it’s too good to be true then it probably is.

Why are counterfeits bad?

Counterfeit fragrances can sometimes smell similar to the real thing but are always composed of cheaper ingredients or have been watered down. In the end, counterfeits are bad because you don’t know what went into them and they could harm your health. The creators of those fakes don’t comply with regulatory standards and don’t care if someone gets hurt from using the product. They could be using harsh chemicals, low-quality alcohol, use too much of a volatile component, have carcinogenic components, poor quality water, and who knows what else.

Which perfumes are counterfeited the most?

All mainstream perfumes suffer from counterfeiting from Britney Spears Fantasy to Chanel No.5. Smaller, lesser known niche houses are a little bit safer, but beware of cheap Creed fragrances and never assume that just because you’re buying niche, that you are completely immune to counterfeits. Some of the most counterfeited fragrances are Coco Mademoiselle, Chanel No.5, Chanel Chance, and  Green Irish Tweed by Creed. In fact, Green Irish Tweed has so many counterfeits due to its popularity and status that some of the counterfeits have gotten the look and details of the packaging down to near perfection. As a result, it can be really tricky to spot a fake Green Irish Tweed. Fortunately, due to how popular Green Irish Tweed and the Creed label are, there are lots of people who have used them for years and can help you identify a real from a fake.

How do I avoid buying a counterfeit fragrance?

The best, safest way, to buy perfume is to go to the perfume house directly, pull up a chair and watch them blend your perfume right in front of you. Obviously this isn’t going to happen to anybody any time soon.

So, on a more serious note, the most realistic and safest way to get your perfumes is through a department store counter  (Neiman Marcus, Holt Renfrew, Saks Fifth Avenue, Macy’s, etc.) or the fragrance’s boutique store where you can smell the stuff yourself and buy there. This, however, is expensive. That’s not to mention that not everyone has a department or boutique store within reasonable distance. And some people don’t want to purchase fragrances online from these stores because they haven’t smelled it first and samples are not available. Besides, the department stores don’t always carry what you’re looking for.

Next step is to get online and purchase from reputable online retailers (Beauty Encounter, Lucky Scent [who also have a physical store in West Hollywood, California]). The key is to do your research before you buy. Online discounters can start out good, but go bad for one reason or another. That’s why it’s important to keep up to date with discounter reviews and fragrance news. Something everyone should be doing if they purchase goods online is reading reviews from legitimate sources about the stores they’re going to buy from. Look the retailer up on Google. See if anyone has written a review on the retailer. Look for a second, third, fourth, tenth opinion on different review sites if possible.

Pay attention to what those reviewers are saying about the company, look at the tone of the reviews. Some seedy companies will go out and write glowing reviews for themselves. It is important to be able to tell whether reviews are actually from customers or if it’s just someone from the company talking themselves up. There are a few great retailers offering perfumes at reasonable discounts and these guys will usually have a lot of reviews written up on them by a wide variety of people.

If you must buy from a smaller, lesser known discounter, be aware of the risks associated with this. Not all small discounters are bad, and you may just have the next great deal on your hands, the key is to be alert and aware of the position you’re  putting yourself in.

What about eBay?

eBay can be a godsend for people seeking out old, discontinued, vintage fragrances. And it could be a nice place to snag that latest trendy perfume too. But eBay is a risky venture when it comes to fragrances. There are some very, very convincing fakes out there and there is no guarantee that the picture you’re seeing on an eBay auction is an actual picture of the bottle.

Some counterfeiters will swipe photos people took of their bottles online and use them to sell their lots (hence why all the Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab bottles featured on this blog have a  watermark on them). Another popular technique some counterfeiters use is to list the item with a press or company image of the bottle. For example, you can go to chanel.com and view photos of pretty much every fragrance they offer at the moment. It is easy for an eBay seller to take one of those photos to use in their listing. As a general rule, I tend to be suspicious of a listing for a fragrance that’s only using a company photo and will always ask the seller to provide actual photographs of their bottle or I won’t buy.

If you must buy from eBay, put the seller under a microscope before you bid. Don’t feel guilty about scrutinizing a seller. You’re buying a product, and you want to make sure you get exactly what you paid for. Inspect their feedback and see what others have said about them. Check their negative feedback for consistent or repeated problems other buyers have had. Look at their other items for sale. If they’re selling a huge quantity of the same fragrance, be leery but don’t jump to conclusions yet.

If you are looking at used, unboxed perfume bottles then you are likely to be on safer ground than if you were looking at buying brand new, factory-sealed fragrances. If you are going for factory-sealed it becomes very important that you scrutinize the outer packaging. Ask for pictures of all dimensions of the box. Specify that these pictures should be large. You’re about to drop a lot of money on this perfume so make sure it is legitimate by scrutinizing everything and making sure it is absolutely real. You’ll need to do the legwork by researching the appearance of your fragrance. Pay attention to the markings on authentic bottles and boxes and make sure they match up to the photos on the listing.

Sometimes shady sellers may have some really good dupes on the outside so check the cellophane. It is also not unheard of for shady sellers to open an authentic box, take out the authentic fragrance and replace it with a shoddy copy. So the cellophane should be neatly folded, evenly dispersed and glued down nicely. If the cellophane looks wrinkled, crooked, or poorly glued then be suspicious. If the cellophane was open, the seller should have a good reason for doing so and since it’s already been opened, ask the seller to take shots of the bottle inside the box.

Depending on how accommodating a seller is, you should try to get some more information out of them. If you suspect the photos on the auction were swiped, try asking the seller to take more photographs, specifically of the logos and other branding, the informational labels on the fragrance, a photo of the bottle next to a piece of paper with a word or username you specified written on it, and so on. Finally, look at the price. If you’re looking at a brand new bottle of perfume that would normally be $100 going for $10, it is too good to be true.

How can I tell if I have a counterfeit?

Counterfeiters are getting increasingly sophisticated with their fakes. At least on the outside. It is extremely difficult for a counterfeiter to completely replicate the actual perfume itself because creating the exact same product wouldn’t be cost effective for them. It is a bit easier for them to get the packaging details right but they often slip up as well. The following are some things to look out for when you suspect you’ve got a fake:

1. The outer packaging.
Look at the shrink wrap and the box your fragrance came in. The shrink wrap should fit cleanly and snugly around your box. It should be made of high quality cellophane that is clear and unwrinkled. The glue should be applied carefully and evenly and come away clean and easily. The box itself should have sharp, even corners, and be made of durable or high quality materials. The box will also contain the fragrance’s name, the company that made it, and a cursory list of ingredients in the fragrance itself. Read everything on the box. There should be no spelling, punctuation, duplication of words, or grammar errors.

2. The bottle.
Real perfume bottles are detailed and made of glass with specific design elements that make it easy for the user to spray or apply the fragrance (Burberry Brit’s bottle defies all logic and is a terrible example). If your fragrance bottle has visible faults in the glass, isn’t made of the materials it should be, has a defective sprayer, is featured in a color that isn’t typical, or lacks the usual markings in the right places (brand name, fragrance name, logos, serial numbers, lot numbers) then be very suspicious. Some counterfeits also use cheap stickers to attach a perfume’s name to the bottle instead of embossing the name like most real bottles tend to have.
For most mainstream bottles, you can look some pictures up online to get an idea of what your bottle is supposed to look like. Make sure you get the right name and year when you Google because many fragrances have flankers which can be colored or designed differently. Or you may have an older bottle with a different design.
Again, check for typos or spelling errors. On the bottom of most perfumes, there should be general information about the perfume (concentration, amount, fragrance name, fragrance house) either etched into the glass or attached with a well fixed, well-fitted sticker. If the sticker does not fit the bottom of the bottle, be wary. Some houses also affix information using ink. This inked information should be difficult to remove. If you find that the information is easily scratched off or rubbed off, be very wary.

3. The juice inside the bottle.
Real perfume liquid should be crystal clear. There should be nothing swimming in there like sediment. If you’ve got cloudy perfume, or perfume that has mysterious bits and pieces in it, return it. Perfumes are often colored and if you have an older, authentic bottle handy, try comparing the color of the two. Make sure your authentic bottle is not expired because expired or many years old because perfumes will change color as it ages. Anyway, if both bottles are fresh, the colors should be the same.

4. The fragrance itself.
It is good practice to have a sampler or an excellent idea of what your fragrance is supposed to smell like. Whether you have a sampler for reference or have smelled it a few times in a store. This is the best way to tell if you have a fake fragrance or not. Real fragrances are complex and have three layers, top notes, middle notes, and base notes. Most counterfeits won’t smell like the real thing. They may smell similar but have a flat, one-dimensional quality to them like they’re missing an entire layer of notes.
You can test out the suspected fake by spraying a sample of the real thing and the suspected fake on different blotters. Never test a suspected fake fragrance on your skin. You do not know what components went into making the counterfeits and there could be something in there that might harm you.
Please keep in mind as you are testing that some perfumes may change as they age and therefore smell different. Different concentrations (EDT vs. EDP) may also smell different. Don’t jump to conclusions immediately if a fragrance smells different than it should. It could be old, or you may be trying to test two difference concentrations and getting different results.

If you just don’t know where to start telling if your fragrance is real or not, it seems very authentic but you’re still concerned, or you just can’t find any reference photos, then ask the online community. There are forums and people who have probably used that fragrance for years and can tell you what to look out for or tell you if you’ve got an authentic fragrance or a fake if you provide them with a few photos.

I think I have a counterfeit, what do I do?

If you purchased a fake fragrance, send or take it back to the store or retailer and explain what happened to them. Reputable stores should take the bottle back and either issue you a real bottle or give you a refund. If the retailer doesn’t accept refunds, your only recourse is to warn others of what happened to you, throw the fragrance you bought out, and take steps to ensure that this won’t happen to you again.

Remember, if it’s too good to be true then it probably is. If you suspect you have a fake, ask someone for a second opinion. And never wear a counterfeit fragrance because there is no way, short of sending it off for laboratory testing, to tell what’s in it.


Creed Virgin Island Water

Creed’s one of those fragrance houses that always lands in the, “Meh, I don’t know” category when it comes to a full on purchase. They’re billed as a niche fragrance house. I like most of what they have to offer but I’m also turned away by the price and the fact that a percentage of the fragrances I’ve smelled from them tend to smell very similar to more affordable fragrances. Virgin Island Water suffers from this, “Oh, this is nice but it also smells like . . .” Virgin Island Water

In Bottle: Rummy coconut and crisp lime. The rum note is getting a lot of help from the alcohol base of Virgin Island Water, and making the scent a tad more authentic. Virgin Island Water is a clear, crisp, clean fragrance with a slightly floral, gingery treatment.

Applied: The rum is up front and center then steps aside for the coconut and lime. Many people have noted the similarity between Virgin Island Water and Bath and Body Works’ Coconut Lime Verbena. I don’t blame them, it was the first thing I thought when I smelled this too. But there’s subtle differences between the two. The most prominent one being that Coconut Lime Verbena is a much simpler fragrance with less boozy personality than Virgin Island Water. The latter has a crisper, greener lime note, a less aggressive coconut note and then there’s that rum which Coconut Lime Verbena lacks. In addition to the rum and the purity of the lime and coconut, Virgin Island Water also has an interesting evolution where its Bath and Body Works counterpart tends to stay one-dimensional. As the scent ages, the ginger comes up, spicing up the fragrance and giving it a more exotic feel. Hibiscus and jasmine also help separate Virgin Island Water and add sophistication to the scent as the dry down starts showing off a bit of flower power. The only thing I can’t say for Virgin Island Water is its lackluster staying power as I approached dry down within a few hours. At least dry down was beautiful as a crystal clear, rich coconut rum fragrance.

Extra: Creed is a fragrance house that began sometime in 1760 in London by James Henry Creed and is still run by the family today by Oliver Creed. There is some speculation as to some of their former clientele, but I’m not much of a Creed history buff nor does it affect the fact that I like the fragrances they put out so they’re doing something right because they have a lot of fans.

Design: Most Creed fragrances come in similar bottles. I have a sample vial straight from Creed itself that’s just a generic glass vial filled with the good stuff. There are glass flacons and spray bottles available that tend to look the same depending upon the fragrance gender. I’ve never held nor seen a Creed bottle in person so I cannot attest to the quality of the packaging. I can say that I’m not much of a fan of the pretty plain looking spray bottles but the splash flacons look elegant and functional.

Fragrance Family: Fresh

Notes: Bergamot, lime, mandarin, coconut, copra, jasmine, hibiscus, ylang-ylang, ginger, tonkin, rum, sugar cane.

So it comes down to one question. Is it worth it to shell out the hundred-something bucks for a bottle of Virgin Island Water when most people wouldn’t be able to tell the difference between the hundred dollar juice and the ten dollar juice from Bath and Body Works? Try them both out first. Perfume is a personal experience and not everyone’s nose can detect every note in a fragrance. If you can tell the difference between the two and like Virgin Island Water more, then buy it if you feel it’s worth it. If you can’t tell the difference and like them both just fine, it’s probably better to get Coconut Lime Verbena and save yourself quite a bit of money.

Reviewed in This Post: Virgin Island Water, 2010, Sample vial.


Juicy Couture Couture Couture

No, you didn’t read that title wrong. The fragrance name is Couture Couture, making the entire thing seem like an excessive exercise to test your ability to avoid spitting all over yourself and the poor sap standing in front of you. Couture Couture is the young 2009 release from Juicy Couture followings its two wildly popular fragrances, Juice Couture and Viva la Juicy. Couture Couture

In Bottle: Sweet, sweet, fruit. One only has to take a sniff of this to realize that there’s at least a few degrees of sweetness in there. That something sweet is being layered over something sweet, and those two sweet things are being coated in a thick layer of sweetness and on top they’ve drizzled some fruit, added a drop of vanilla and called it a day.

Applied: Sweetness. But that’s okay, it’s not done yet. Couture Couture still has a ways to go and evolve before the day is done. The fruits start to come up as well as the vanilla, which I had thought would remain behind everything else for a while longer but it’s a more eager vanilla, I guess. I’m smelling grape punch, the kind that you buy frozen and then mix with water at home.  There’s florals in there though. Don’t think Couture Couture is a fruit and sugar only gal. The sweet honeysuckle note makes an appearance here along with its jasmine friend, hovering around the miasma of sugared fruit. The dry down of Couture Couture is a bit friendlier to me. The rest of the fragrance is so sugary sweet that when the dry down arrives, I get a hint of light sandalwood and realize that things are going to be okay. But that’s after the hours of tumbling down fruit and sugar mountain.

Extra: Juicy Couture, the company, started in 1994. Their velour tracksuits were all the rage when I was younger. I never did catch onto Juicy Couture’s line of clothing though.

Design: Nice interesting bottle design. Not rectangular, but also not in a bizarre shape that takes up too much horizontal room. The cap has an interesting topper on it, giving the bottle an exotic look. There’s a pink ribbon tied to the bottle to give it an extra cute little detail. The topper kind of reminds me of the Betsey Johnson bottle–except done a thousand times better.

Fragrance Family: Fruity Floral

Notes: Mandarin, grape, plum, orange blossom, jasmine, honeysuckle, vanilla, sandalwood, amber.

In a way Couture Couture reminds me of a mix of original Juicy Couture and Viva la Juicy with a huge smack of sugar thrown in. But that familiarity with the other two Juicy fragrances might also have something to do with the fact that they’re all fruity florals, come from the same company, and are made to appeal to the same kind of people.

Reviewed in This Post: Couture Couture, 2010, Eau de Parfum.